MT.
DEOTIBBA ( 6001M.)
DUO ALPINE STYLE ATTEMPT
LEADER’S REPORT – September – 2014.
DUO ALPINE STYLE ATTEMPT
LEADER’S REPORT – September – 2014.
ORGANISED
BY: ALPINISTS : SUJOY MONDAL & KRISHNENDU BASAK. W.B.
1. Name of
the Association: Individual.
2. Name of
the expedition: Mt. Deotibba (6001 M) Expedition, September 2014.
3. Name of
the Himalayan peak climbed and its height: Climbed up to 5000m. ( Dohangal cal
) en route Deotibba -6001 M.
4. Date on
which permit was given by IMF: 01/9/2014 to 30/9/2014.
5. Nominal
roll of the expedition leader and members:
i. Sujoy
Mondal – Leader of the expedition team and climbed up to 5000m.
ii. Krisnandu
Basak –
He was the Co-climber of the expedition team. He also climbed 5000m.
6.
Commencement of trek from rail head/road head: From road head – trek started on
05/9/2014 from Barahazari ( Jagatsukh Hydel Project)
Village (8
K.M. from Manali), Kullu. District, - Himachal Pradesh.
7. Number of
camps en route up to Base Camp: Three transit camps were established i.e. Chikka (3200 M.), Seri (3665 M.) and Tainta
(3990 M.) before reaching Base Camp.
8. Interaction
with local administration en route and assistance received/problems faced:
At Manali we
had visited the Police Station of Kullu District and Office of the Atal Bihari
Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering & Allied Sports, Manali – 175131 (
H.P.).
We informed
them about our Duo Alpine Style attempt Mt. Deotibba (6001m) expedition.
According to
our plan, we started our journey from the Jagatsukh Nala and reached Jagatsukh
on 2nd september afternoon. We took shelter in the house of Tikkam
Ram, a well known person of Jagatsukh village. He arranged the mule. Mule owner
was Gayatru Ram and Yash Pal who worked
for us as a Cook.
The Mule
owner also cheated us. They left our luggage at Tainta Camp though we had contracted
up to Chandratal i.e. our Base Camp. There, he again demanded extra money for
Chandratal, B.CAMP.
9.
Establishment of Base Camp:
We engaged 3
mules for carrying our loads up to the Base Camp. First day, on 05th
September, 2014 we moved from Jagatsukh village at 10.30 a.m. towards the true Right
bank of Jagatsukh Nala. Within 1 and half hours we reached Barahazari by Jeep
and reached Jagatsukh Hydro Electric Project Dam. That was the last road head, from there we started
our trek. The route was through dense forest. From Barahazari it took 3 hours
to reach Chikka (3200 M). We spent the night in a Hut. Next day i.e. on 06th
September, 2014 we proceeded through the true right bank of Jagatsukh Nala. The
approach from Chikka to Seri (3665 M) was an easy and one of the most beautiful
treks. We took 5 hours to reach Seri. Here we pitched our tents on a vast green
valley. Next day i.e. 07th we reached Tainta within 3 and half hours. The
Muleteers told us that this is the Base Camp of Deotibba Peak. Later we
understood that Base Camp i.e. Chandratal was far ahead. We ferried loads for 2
days, on 8th and 9th September from Tainta to Chandratal and
on 10th September we occupied the Base Camp (Chandra Tal – 4500 m.).
10.
Establishment of higher camps with routes marked on the maps/sketches:
Enclosed.
11.
Technical/Climbing difficulty on way to higher camps:
From Base
Camp to Camp-I, the route was straight towards east. Then south. We thought of
fixing rope for reaching the top of the Col. We proceeded through a glacier and
after three hour’s trek on the glacier we established our camp 1, below the
col. And after that we started fixing rope through rock fall zone towards
Dhuhangan Col. (5000 m.) but within 1 and ½ hours the weather became dull. So
we were forced to come down to camp 1. We were able to fix only 200 ft. of rope
that day.
12. Snow and
rock condition:
Snow
condition of this expedition was very bad. First we faced the snowfall after
reaching Camp-1. Soft snow was there. Granite rock was there. But loose rocks
fell occasionally from the Dhohangon col.
13. Weather
condition:
After
starting from Jagatsukh on 05/9/2014 we faced bad weather on the first day trek.
Heavy rain started in the afternoon. Next day also weather was not good. Then
again in the evening of 7th September, 2014 the weather condition deteriorated
for 10 days. Snowfall started on 7th evening and it continued till 12th night.
It was snowing all these days. It was white out for most of the time.
14. Attempt report:
On 11th
September, 2014 myself and Krishnandu fixed 1 coil of rope on the wall of
Dhohangan Coll and returned to Camp I. snowfall started very soon and continued
for 5 days along with thunderstorm. We couldn’t proceed to Dhohangon Coll due
to deposition of snow on loose rocks. And all nearer crevasses on the way were
hidden due to continuous snow fall. In this situation we decided to return to
B.C. On 16th September we returned to B.C., from camp – 1 very
carefully by negotiating all hidden crevasses on the way. We had climbed 5000m.
At that time
an Army expedition to Mt. Deotibba reached at Tainta.
15. Camp site
cleaning activities and disposal of garbage:
The area of
Base Camp was cleared and all the garbage was burnt and buried. Garbage from
Camp-I area was collected and taken back to Base Camp and later on burnt and
buried.
16. Maximum
height attained and its date:
5000 m. (Dhogangon
Coll) of Deotibba Peak on 14.9.2014.
17. Names of Climbers:
1. Sujoy Mondal 2. Krishnandu Basak..
18. Name of
LO (if any): Not applicable.
19. Total
expenditure incurred for the expedition (i.e. on food, porter, equipment etc.)
along with Chartered Accountant’s audited statement of accounts:
Chartered Accountant’s Audit Report
enclosed.
20. Details
of day-by-day events to be attached: Separate sheet attached.
21.
Suggestions/complaints: Nothing.
22. Survey of
India Map or sketch marking accurately the route, campsite and their heights:
Separate sheet enclosed.
23. Photo
evidence: Enclosed.
Date :
(Leader’s
particulars and signature)
Name : Sujoy
Mondal
Address : 8,No Bijaynager, Naihati P.O. Naihati – 743165 Naihati Dist. 24 Parganas ( N ), W.B. Phone No.09477150743
Address : 8,No Bijaynager, Naihati P.O. Naihati – 743165 Naihati Dist. 24 Parganas ( N ), W.B. Phone No.09477150743
